Want to know about sewing infinity scarves. You can do much more. Sewing is so powerful. Rather than settling for ready-to-wear clothes that don’t quite fit properly, we get to create our own clothes that fit our bodies the way we want. We get to choose the fabric, the color, the size, and we can alter the patterns to fit our unique beautiful shapes. One of the most important concepts in sewing is ease. So why is ease so important? Because it’s what allows us to move in our clothes and it affects the overall design and shape of the garment.
I’m going to teach you all about the basic concepts of ease, including how to calculate ease and how to keep it in mind while sewing. Ease is important for both the garment’s fit and its design. “Wearing ease” is what that allows us to have movement in our garments. If we sewed a pattern in a woven fabric that matched our exact measurements, it would fit like a second skin, and we would have no range of movement! So, we add ease. “Design ease” is that which is added to a garment to influence the overall shape and silhouette of the style. A close-fitting garment—like the Christina pencil skirt—has less ease. A loose-fitting garment—like the Tacarakn it dress—has more ease. Before you pick a size to cut, it’s important to check two measurement charts—body measurements and finish garment measurements.
They may or may not be on separate charts. Seam work has both included on the same size chart. Here I have the size chart for the York. The bust measurement on a size 8 is 37 inches. The finished garment measurement is 40 inches. To calculate the amount of ease, you subtract the body measurements from the finished garment measurements. So, 40 minus 37 equals 3 inches of ease in the bust on a size 8. Now let’s talk about negative ease. While woven garments add ease, many knit garments subtract ease to get negative ease. “Negative ease” is done when this is when the finished garment measurements are smaller than the body measurements. A close-fitting tank top or T-shirt will likely have negative ease. I’m wearing the Seam work Margo.
Margo has negative two inches of ease in the hips so what that means is that the finished garment measurement of the Margo is 2inches smaller than my body measurement. You might be wondering how patternmakers draft to include ease. Each company has their own standards for the main measurement points on the body— bust, waist, hip, etc. The patternmaker will start with these standards and then we’ll add or subtract ease to achieve the silhouette that the pattern designer has sketched out. Here are 3 tips for using ease while sewing.
Tip 1: One keep ease in mind when deciding which size to cut.
Do you want your garment to fit more closely or do you want it to be a little roomier? Calculate the amount of ease for the main measurement points, and keep that in mind when choosing which size. This is especially helpful for when your measurements fall between sizes.
Tip 2: You can often size up or down if you prefer more or less ease.
Keep in mind that when you size up or down, it will affect all of the pattern measurements, including measurements like the shoulder width, the bicep, and the sleeve length. You may need to measure portions of the pattern and compare them to your own measurements and then adjust as necessary.
Tip 3: Measure your body before every sewing project. Our bodies can change and those fluctuations may affect fit or silhouette—but that’s okay, because you have the power to add more or less ease to alter the pattern to fit your perfect shape.
Cut your pieces from the main and lining fabrics MAIN – put the fronts and back right sides together and stitch the sides Repeat for the lining Press open the seams. Repeat. Put the hoods right sides together and stitch the back. Pin the hood to the cape right sides together and stich. Clip the neck. Repeat for the lining. Press the interfacing on the wrong side of the tab. Stitch the Velcro on the lining side (I wanted my tab to show the red fabric on the outside.) Put the tabs right sides together and stitch. Trim, clip, turn and press Stitch the Velcro and baste the edge of the tab. Note that the instructions in the pattern have the tab and velcro added before the hood (either way works) Match all the edges right sides together Stitch with a 1/2 inch (12mm) seam and leave a gap to turn. Clip and turn. Press Topstitch The pattern also comes with the Little Red Riding applique option.