Hi everyone my name is Glenda with Sure-Fit Designs – commonly referred to as Glenda the Good Stitch.
Those of you who ready sew with the Sure-Fit Designs fitting designing and sewing system know how flexible it can be for all of your sewing needs.
Today I’d like to focus on the Shirt Kit and the arm scye. And why is that? Well very recently I received a question on it was how do I raise the underarm of the armscye up to make it less deep.
And so I’d like to first of all explain to you why the shirt pattern pieces are the way they are. So let’s take a look at this blouse that I have on the mannequin here.Here is the machine for the beginners.
Done from the Shirt Kit – does not have a bust fitting Dart again most of you realize that the shirt pattern is a dart less garment if you need to add one you can there are directions for it but initially it starts off without a bust dart.
And when it doesn’t have a bust dart, it means that you need to have more wearing ease in the circumference of the bust line and so the shirt kit provides about five and a half to six inches of ease.
Now because it’s got more ease it means that it requires the deeper arm scye and with the deeper arm scyeI it means that the sleeve cap is flatter and the sleeve is wider.
But does that mean you can’t raise the arm scye? No of course not – you definitely can.
As we take a look at the jacket that I’m currently wearing I have raised the arm scye and now I’d like to take you to the pattern and show you how easy that is to do. We’ll begin on the shirt front.
You will already have drawn off your shirt front in your size of course in your measurements and I’m going to come up one inch and I’m going to make a dot and then what I’m going to do is pencil this in because I just want to get a visual idea of how best the curve should look.
And then I’ll come back to it and I will true it up with the Designing Stylus.
So just take your Designing Stylus and use curves that best follow your pencil line and I’m going to do this in a different color so that you can see it.
And then to finish off that curve I’ll just flop the Designing Stylus over and come out like this so the arms cye now has come up one inch.
And then I would blend back down into the existing side seam like that.
Another thing that you’ll want to do is extend the matching notch out like that. Let’s move on to the shirt back. It will be the same process. You’re going to measure up one inch like this and make a dot.
Then you’re going to come with your pencil and just visually make a nice smooth curve and then come back with your Designing Stylus and start truing and blending that curve so that it’s completed.
And of course on the back we’re going to extend double notches for the notch at the back of the arm scye.
And then just blend back down in to that side seam.
So now let’s take a look at the sleeve pattern.
Going over here we’re going to do virtually the same thing.
I will measure up one inch and make a dot and I’m going to pencil this in so that I can get a visual perspective of a nice smooth curve.
I’ll do the same thing on the other side come up one inch and then I’m just visually blending and truing from the cap.
Now I’ll come in with a different color so that you can see this and I’ll come like this and then I have to just shift the Stylus a little bit more to finish that off and we’ll blend at the side seam and do the same thing over here and blend down into the side seam.
Lastly let’s remember the matching notches the single notch goes in the front and the double notch goes in the back of the sleeve cap.
I know that when many of you see this little video I’m going to be getting phone calls and emails asking how I did the rest of this jacket.
Well I’ll give you some guidelines – number one I sewed it out of a knit fabric and that means that Introduced some of the ease that’s in the garment and you can size down one or two dots depending of course on how stretchy your fabric is.
And what do I mean by sizing down one or two dots? Well if you started off with a 40 inch bust you’re going to come down to perhaps a 39 or maybe even a 38 dot.
You’re getting rid of some of the ease because the knit is so stretchy.
Then what I did to create this flare and and fullness and flouncy kind of stuff on the on the top was I spread the side seam open about 6 inches.
Then I took the front of it and I cut from the hemline up to the shoulder line and I spread that open another 6 inches.
And then it sent her front I think I came out about another 4 to 6 inches soI had lots of fullness here.
And you’ll notice that the front of this there’s the the hem level right here and you can see how long the back becomes and so I just had to graduate the hem from a shorter front down through the side seam and I kept going to the hemline at the back.
The only thing you need to make very certain of is that when you do that that the side seams are the same length when you end up on the back and the front after drawing them both.
And then of course on the back of the pattern I’ve got some fullness back here as well so I took the back pattern I sliced from the hemline up to the shoulder line and spread that open about six inches and added a little bit of fullness at the side seam so it was just actually a lot of fullness being added to the drape at the hemline.
I hope you enjoyed this short video on how to raise the arm sigh up in your Shirt Kit.
You can see how totally flexible your Sure-Fit Designs Shirt Kit is going to be.
And I would invite you to join our Sure-Fit Designs community and you can do that very quickly. Go to Sure Fit designs.
Com our main website and request to join the newsletter list it’s totally free to do that. Number two make sure you like and subscribe to our you tube channel which is just sure fit designs.
And last but certainly not least if you have a Facebook presence and would like to join our private group please make sure that you request to join and participate in the fun of seeing everybody’s garments the asking of the questions and the interacting with one another.
And you can do that by going to facebook.
Com forward slashgroups forward slash surefitdesigns.
Thank you so much for watching and Ihope to see you in the next video.